Scotland the beginning.....

Yesterday got us up to the migration north so now time to fill in the north of the border adventures.

We arrived up north just in time to welcome some rain and warmth - how very unhelpful. So after a couple fo days milling about and settling into the luxury of Lewis - our Lochaber Lodge, with Ian Hey and James Thacker, it was time to get involved in the walking that is scottish winter.

First days climbing was not a gentle break-in to walking with a full-on schlap up to Church Door Buttress on Bidean nam Ban in Glencoe. 2 hours of uphill later James (JTM), Toby Keep and I arrived at the bottom of the crag, for a day of excellent and highly sociable climbing. Not only were there three of us, we found Tamsin Gay and Tania Noakes there, and Owen and Rocio too.

We all climbed the 4 * classic West Chimney (V,6 - although probably easier in the conditions we found) - which was brilliant and I got the highly entertaining tunneling pitch which involved some excellent caving rather than climbing. A mixed route so more of that strange hooking and scrabbling to get on with - but I reallt enjoyed it! Thanks JTM and Toby.


Next outing was a voyage of discovery with Andy, after a tip off from some PYB'ers who'd been up that with a course earlier in the week, we headed into the Mamores and Am Bodach for some new routing on some fine little ice falls. Ticked off 3 routes and there a couple more to go at so hoping to head back there before they all fall down. Andy was the crux pitch leader and we (OK well mostly he - coz I'm not sure I really know!) reckon they went at IV, IV/V, and V. The top pitch is shared and was mine and went at a III up until the ice finished and then turned into some mountaineering which we cut a little short of going for the summit but that would be an option. Will try and make a topo once all of the lines have been done!! The photo is Andy on the left-hand of the routes going up a little pillar of ice, steeper than it looks of course but a little short to be a classic!

Right then, coming right up to date with todays outing with Andy.

A jaunt into Stob Coire nan Lochan - the first of the season and I have to say the walk-in was nothing like as bad as I remembered and way shorter than Church Door!

First route on the agenda was Scabbard Chimney (V,6) an excellent mixed climb, which had lots of helpful ice and neve. Glad I wasn't on the sharp end but seemed to go Ok. We then abseiled down the line of The Tempest (M9) as Andy was keen to see what was happening with the fixed gear from the first ascent - most of it is now in our chalet and the rest broke and wouldn't come out! Thanks to the first ascentionist who has made it rather tricky for anyone else to repeat. Not that it was going to be me!

Meanwhile on Dorsal Arete, some somewhat scary death-rope shenanagains were going on, which involved some retreating and some topping out, but luckily all survived the day!

After a frankly very efficient ascent of Scabbard Chimney - it's great having a rope gun that is so good! We thought about Twisting Gully - full of not very efficient teams - so then went for SC Gully (III) another Cold Climbs tick and a great bit of confidence for me as I led all the proper climbing and Andy topped us out. Fab route, although rather runout in several places. Liked being able to do a couple of steps of mixed type stuff alongside the more traditional ice/neve gully climbing.



Back to the bottom down Broad Gully and a scone from our rucksacks.